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Print this small test plate before a big part: three screw-hole clearances and three nut-pocket depths, or three bearing-pocket sizes. Measure the results with calipers to see what actually fits on your printer.
Every printer sizes holes and pockets a little differently, so 'the right fit' depends on your machine, not a table. Print this small plate first, measure it, and use what you learn before committing a big part to a fit you're guessing at. Pick a screw size and print the screws & nuts plate: three through-hole clearances (Close/Normal/Free) and three hex-nut pocket depths (Snug/Normal/Loose), each nut pocket sitting over a clearance pilot so you can drive the screw straight into the captured nut. Or pick a bearing and print the bearing plate: three printed-pocket sizes (Press/Slip/Loose) for that bearing's outer race, cut straight through the plate. Every dimension is debossed beside its feature so you can read it straight off with calipers. The plate deliberately applies no tolerance compensation - these are baseline sizes, not pre-adjusted for any one printer - so print with your slicer's hole compensation OFF, measure each feature, and note which grade gives you the fit you actually want. Within a trio, each grade should measure looser than the one before it; if two grades come out identical, your printer needs recalibrating before you trust it on a real part.
More on how these parts are made: the About page.
Designed for FDM and exported at nominal size. Choosing a material changes the slicer advice we show - never the part's dimensions - so keep shrinkage compensation in your slicer's filament profile, where it's measured per spool. Clearance fits come from measured fastener and hardware tables. Snap and lipped parts assume a 0.4 mm nozzle; print 3+ perimeters for strength.